Visit our Helpdesk
Visit our Helpdesk
A silver medal should look cared for, not newly manufactured. Brightening tarnish can restore a smart appearance for a parade, display or family presentation, but over-polishing removes a minute layer of metal each time. On older awards, that can soften lettering, reduce definition in a portrait or badge, and erase the natural character that helps tell its history.
Knowing how to polish silver medals therefore begins with restraint. Establish what the medal is made from, assess its condition, and use the mildest method likely to work. If an award has rarity, clear historical provenance, engraved naming, original ribbons or a mounted group, preservation should take priority over shine.
Not every silver-coloured medal is silver. British medals may be sterling silver, silver plate, cupro-nickel, nickel silver or another base-metal alloy. A modern replica may have a finish that should not be treated in the same way as a solid silver original. Hallmarks can help identify sterling silver, although their absence does not automatically mean a medal is not silver.
The distinction matters. Silver plate has only a thin outer layer and vigorous polishing can wear through it, leaving patches of a different-coloured metal beneath. Antique silver also commonly develops a gentle grey patina in recessed detail. Collectors often value this as evidence of age, while a fully mirror-bright finish may look out of place on a Victorian or early twentieth-century award.
Look closely before doing anything. If there is green residue, powdery corrosion, flaking plating, deep black staining around joins, or looseness at the suspension, stop. These are not routine polishing issues. A professional assessment is the safer choice, particularly for named campaign medals and complete groups.
Work on a clean, well-lit table covered with a soft cotton towel. This prevents the medal being scratched if it slips and makes small components easier to see. Remove rings, watches and bracelets that could catch the surface.
You will usually need only a few basic items:
If the medal is attached to a ribbon, do not assume it is safe to immerse. Old silk and wool ribbons can bleed, shrink or weaken when wet. Mounted medals should generally remain assembled unless a specialist is carrying out the work. Removing and refitting them without the correct materials can affect their alignment, folds and ceremonial presentation.
Use a dry microfibre cloth to lift loose dust and surface grime. Wipe in light, straight passes rather than rubbing hard in circles. A soft, dry brush can be useful around raised lettering and emblems, but do not use a stiff toothbrush, metal pick or anything abrasive.
At this stage, inspect the result. Many medals need no more than careful dusting. A little tarnish in the lower areas of a design can improve legibility by providing contrast around the relief.
For ordinary handling marks or greasy residue, mix a very small amount of mild washing-up liquid into distilled lukewarm water. Dampen, rather than soak, a soft cloth and wipe the medal carefully. Keep water away from ribbons, backing materials and the folds of court-mounted groups.
Use a second cloth lightly dampened with distilled water to remove soap residue, then pat dry immediately with a fresh, lint-free cloth. Never leave a medal to air-dry, as water marks can form. This simple method is often enough for medals that appear dull because of accumulated dirt rather than true tarnish.
If black silver sulphide tarnish remains and a brighter finish is appropriate, apply a tiny amount of a quality silver polish to a soft cloth, not directly to the medal. Test first on an unobtrusive edge. Work over a small section with minimal pressure, following the contours of the design rather than forcing polish into lettering, dates or crevices.
Buff away all residue with a separate clean cloth. Polish left in recessed areas dries pale and can be difficult to remove without further rubbing. Cotton buds can help lift residue from around a crown, portrait or inscription, but they should be used gently and changed as soon as they become soiled.
One light pass is preferable to repeated attempts to achieve an artificial shine. If the tarnish does not lift readily, do not increase pressure. The medal may require specialist cleaning, or the remaining patina may simply be best left in place.
Popular household remedies can be unnecessarily harsh. Toothpaste, bicarbonate of soda, salt, foil baths and gritty cream cleaners are abrasive or chemically aggressive. They may produce an immediate bright result, but can scratch the surface, strip patina from fine detail and cause problems around mixed-metal components.
Avoid ultrasonic cleaners unless you have confirmed that the particular medal, suspension and mounting materials are suitable. Their vibration can loosen old joints, affect enamel, disturb ribbon fittings and dislodge accumulated material from areas where it is better left undisturbed. Commercial dip cleaners are also a poor choice for historic medals because they can remove tarnish too quickly and leave a flat, unnatural appearance.
Do not polish plated medals aggressively, and never use metal polish on lacquered or stay-bright coated surfaces unless the coating has been professionally removed. A coating may be scratched or clouded by products intended for bare metal.
A medal is more than its metal disc. The ribbon, clasp, suspender and mounting style form part of its correct presentation. Polish can stain a ribbon permanently, so protect fabric with a clean barrier while working near the suspension. If polish has already transferred to the ribbon, avoid rubbing it deeper into the fibres.
For a court-mounted group, the visible medal faces may be accessible, but the reverse is often fixed to a board and fabric-covered backing. Wet cleaning can draw moisture into that structure. Swing-mounted medals present different risks: clasps, chains and rivets can catch on cloths, while repeated movement during cleaning can strain old ribbon material.
Where medals are intended for wear, a specialist cleaning and mounting service can restore a consistent, parade-ready appearance while respecting the correct order, spacing and presentation of the group. This is particularly worthwhile when medals have been inherited, are mounted incorrectly, or include a mixture of silver, bronze and white-metal awards that will each respond differently to cleaning.
The correct finish depends on the medal's purpose. A current replica or replacement medal being prepared for ceremonial wear will often benefit from a clean, even brightness. A named original campaign medal, however, may be better preserved with light cleaning only. Its patina, small marks and aged finish are part of the object's story and may matter to future custodians.
If you are uncertain, avoid a trial on the medal itself. Keep it dry, handle it with clean hands, and seek specialist advice before using polish. This is especially sensible for gallantry awards, scarce campaign issues, medals with enamel, and groups with family provenance.
Once clean, store medals in a dry, stable environment away from direct sunlight, damp lofts and external walls prone to condensation. Use acid-free tissue or suitable archival materials between medals so that surfaces do not rub together. Avoid ordinary rubber bands, PVC sleeves and cheap foam, which can release compounds that accelerate tarnishing or damage ribbons.
Check stored medals periodically rather than polishing them on a fixed schedule. Tarnish prevention is preferable to repeated cleaning, and careful storage means less intervention over the years.
A well-kept medal should retain both its detail and its dignity. Clean only as far as the medal's material, age and purpose allow, and let its service and history remain visible in the finish.
Leave a comment